Sewing machine attachment



I l SEWINGMAGHINE' 'ATTACHMENT Filled June 12, 1940 z sheets-smet 1 wizard IMM Feb. 16, 1943. R. .1. MQFALLS ErAL SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed June 12, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l Patented Feb. '16, 1943 UNITED STATESN PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Richard J. McFalls and I Rolland Herrington, Troy, N. Y., assignors to Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New YorkY Application June 12, 1940, Serial No. 340,011

14 Claims. (Cl. 11,2--151) This invention pertains to sewing machine attachments and relates more especially to an appliance designed to facilitate the back seaming or stitching-down of a collar to a shirt body.

. In accordance with usual practice a collar is secured to a shirt in two successive steps. First, the rear ply of the neckband of the collar is arranged in contact with the outer surface of the shirt body and, together with the lining of the band, is secured to the material of the shirt bodyby means of an ordinary sewed seam which leaves the marginal portions of said rear ply, 1ining and body portion projecting at one side of the seam. Secondly, these margins of the rear ply and lining of the neckband and the shirt body, which project beyond the first seam thus formed, are turned inwardly so as to lie within the confines of the finished collar as defined by said first seam. The fold formed in turning in this marginal material is closely adjacent to the seam. Then the front ply of the neckband is laid over these inturned margins and its edge (previously hemmed) is stitched to the shirt body by a second seam disposed parallel to but slightly below the rst formed seam.

In performing this second step, the prior practice has been for the operator, with her ngers, to turn the marginal material inwardly just in advance of the formation of the stitches of the second seam. However, this second seam must be accurately located so as to engage the extreme edge of the front ply of the neckband and to lie very close to and parallel with the :rst seam, and the proper positioning of the front ply for engagement by the needle and the concomitant turning-in of the marginal material is more than the operator can do as a continuous uninterrupted procedure. rihus, in practice, the operator usually has to stop and start the sewing machine a substantial number of times in forming the second seam. In fact this seam is usually made in a series of steps, the operator stopping the machine after a few stitches, turning in the margin for a short distance ahead of the needle, and then stitching down this portion of turnedin material, and then again stopping the machine again and so on.

The present invention has for its principal object the provision of an attachment for a sewing machine designed to assist the operator in performing the second of the above steps, and in particular tc provide an attachment which automatically turns in the marginal material as the sewing operation progresses. A further object is to provide an attachment which not only turns in the marginal material but which also constitutes a guide or gauge to assist the operator in locating the second seam closely adjacent 'to the free edge of the front ply of the collarb'and and the accurate location of such seam closely adjacent to the first formed seam. y

Since the shirt forms a bulky irregular mass of material vsomewhat diiiicult to handlein sewing, it is sometimes necessary for the' operator to lift the presser foot slightly duri-"ng seam formation in order to slide the work laterally, and a further object of 'the 'invention is to provide a work-turning and guiding attachment such as above referred to whichis automatically lifted so' as to free the work whenever the presser fo'o'tis lifted.

During the initial and nal stages of the :formation of the second or back seam the attachment cannot be used since the extreme ends of the Aneckbiand form sharparcs about which the seam must extend and where the space is too small to 'admit of th'eu'se of theattachinent. A further object of the invention is to provide lan attachment of this kind so devised that it may readily be moved to an inactive position where it will not interfere with the free manipulation AofV the work in sewing around the ends of thev band,

but from which it may easily and quickly bef moved t-o the operative position.

A usual practice in attaching collars requires that' the same operator perform the first step above described and then later perform the second step. Usually the operator will perform the rst step upon a substantial number of collars,` for example a dozen or more, beforestarting the second operation. Since theY first step involves the mere formation of a simple sewed seamV during which the attachment is not used at all, itis desirable to have the attachment completely removed from the field of Viewv of 'the operator at this time, and a further object of the invention is to provide means whereby 'the attachment may be moved to and held at a substantial distance from the stitching point and out of the operators direct vision butl so that it may quickly and accurately be restored to the working field when desired. Other and further objects and advan- A tages of the invention will be pointed out hereinafter in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is an elevation of the attachment, viewed from the left-hand side and illustrated asapplied t0 a sewing machine of conventional type, certain parts of the machine being shown in order to indicate the relative position of the attachment when in operation;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the attachment, that is to say, as viewed by the operator;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the attachment, the presser-foot bar of the sewing machine being shown in section;

Fig. 4 is a view of the lower part of the attachment as seen from the right-hand side;

Fig, 5 is a bottom plan view of the folding portion of the attachment;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a lever which forms part of the support for the folding device;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of an ,arm also i forming a part of the support for the folding device;

Fig. 8 is an edge elevation, to larger scale,

showing the folding plate removed from the" other parts;

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic plan View showing portions of a collar and shirt and illustrative of the operation of the improved folding device, the front ply of the neckband of the collai` being broken away;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. y9 but showing the folding device operatively positioned and with the front ply of the neckband disposed with its edge in engagement with a guide forming part of the attachment;

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic plan view illustrating the first step in attaching a collar to a shirt, the front ply of the neckband being turned back and a part' of the lining being broken away to show the rear ply; l

Fig. 12 is a section on the line I2-I2 of Fig.v 11;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary diagrammatic plan view showing the appearanceof the collar and shirt at' the completion of the collar-attaching operation; and

Fig, 14 is a fragmentary section, to large scale, on thelineV I4--I4 of Fig. 13.

Referring first to Figs, 11 to 14, inclusive, the numeral I designates the upper part of a shirt body and 2 designates the collar, the latter being provided with the neckband 3. This neckbandcomprises the rear ply 4 and the lining 5. In the lrst step of attaching the collar to the shirt (Figs. 11 and 12) the neckband is laid flatagainst the outer surface of the -body portion I with the rear ply 4 of the neckband in contact with the material of the shirt body, and the several parts are then united by means of a sewed seam S. This seam 6 is .spaced inward-l ly a short distance from the raw edges of the several plies of material, thus leaving the projecting margin 'I.

During the formation of this seam 6 the front ply 8 of the neckband is turned back as illustrated in Fig. 11, the raw edge of this front ply 8 having first been turned in to form a -hem 9 whose plies'are united by the sewed seam I0.

As above described, the second and final step in securing the collar to the shirt comprises the disposal of the-marginal materials 1 (Fig, 14) of the several plies I, 4 and 5 so that this marginal material lies vwithin the confines of the neckband,and then the hemmed edge of the frontvply 8 is turned down to cover this marginal material, and the front ply of the =collar is secured to .the shirt by 4a second sewed seam I2 .5(Fig. V14) which Ilies veryclosetothe fold ofthe hemVV 9` andwhich is parallel to and just below the first seam 6. The arrangement of the several constituent plies in the completed shirt is diagrammatically indicated in Fig. 14, it being noted that the marginal material 'I is disposed between the lining 5 and the front ply 8 of the neckband.

The present invention provides an attachment designed to facilitate the turning in of this marginal material and the formation of the second seam I2 at the proper location.

Referring now to Figs. 9 and 10, the attachment is illustrated as comprising the turning member or plow F, the gauge G and the guide D. These parts are disposed with reference to the rsewing machine presser foot P and the needle N v as illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10. In the formation of the seam I2 the operator first turns in the marginal material at the extreme end of the neckband in the usual Way by hand and starts the seam at the extreme end of the band and carries it around the curved end of the band and for a short distance, for example approximately two inches inwardly away from the end of the band. The folding member or plow F is then disposed substantially as shown in Fig. 9 upon the marginal material which has already been -turned in by the operator, the left-hand longitudinal edge of the gauge G being disposed substantially in the line of the first seam 6. The operator then turns the front ply 8 of the neckband down (Fig. 10) over the upper surface of the folding member or plow F so that the extreme edge E of the front ply contacts the left-hand face of the guide D. The machine is now again started and as the work is fed by the sewing machine feed mechanism the plow or folding element F progressively turns inwardly the marginal material of the shirt body, rear ply and lining of the neckband, so that the operator is'relieved of the duty of turning this material in during the progress of forming the seam. As the work feeds along, the left-hand edge of the gauge G continues to contact the folded material substantially in the line of the l seam 6, the fold of the material forming a shoulmatic folding of the marginal material continues until the opposite end of the neckband has nearly been reached whereupon the operator lifts the attachment from the Work and completes the formation of the seam I2 in the usual way, by hand, it being noted that the ends of the neckband are too narrow to admit of the use of the attachment at these points.

Returning now to Figs. 1 to 8, inclusive, the folding device or plow F is illustrated as consisting of a piece of sheet metal disposed substantially horizontally, that is to say, parallel to the work-supporting surface of the bed plate of the sewing machine and having the inclined workengagingedge I3 which constitutes the folding element.v By engagement with the marginal material of the neckband this edge I3 progressively turns such materialover as the collar is fed along by the feed mechanism of the sewing machine. This folder elementF has a substantially fiat, horizontal vupper surface I4, but the rear margin of vthe member F is rounded or beveled off, as shown at I5, to facilitate its entry between the several plies of the neckband. Likewise the lower forward edge of the folder F is preferably rounded oi as shown at I6 to facilitate the movement of the work past this edge. However, it is not necessary to round off this edge I6 as the device will operate satisfactorily even though this edge be a sharp right angle.

To the under side of this folder F the gauge G is xedly secured, for example, by brazing, though the parts may be integral. This gauge is of substantially rectangular transverse section, having the rectilinear edge surface II which is designed to engage the fold of the turned-in marginal material and which lies substantially in the vertical plane of the seam 6. This gauge G projects downwardly below the under surface of the folder F and its bottom face overlies the material of the shirt body during the sewing operation.

The folder F comprises the extension portion i8 (Fig. 5) which extends to the right of the gauge G (as viewed by the operator) and which is provided with a pair of parallel slots I9 extending transversely with respect to the line of stitch formation and which receive screws by means of which the folding device F, with the gauge G, is adjustably secured to a horizontal member 2I (Fig. 2) forming a part of the edge guide D. By the provision of the slots I9 and screws the folder F with the gauge G may be adjusted transversely with reference to the guide D. This guide D comprises a part having a vertical surface 22 of substantial length from front to rear and which constitutes the guide for the eXtreme edge E of the front ply of the neckband as above described.

The guide D is secured to a horizontal member or foot 23 of a supporting bracket 24 by means of screws 25 (Fig. 3) which pass down through an elongate slot 25a in the part 23 and into Screw-threaded openings in the horizontal member 2| of the guide D. Bythe provision of the slot 25a and the screws 25 the guide D together with the folder F and the gauge G may be adjusted toward and from the presser foot P. When the parts are properly positioned, the lefthand surface I'I of the gauge G is disposed just to the left (as viewed by the operator) of the line L (Fig. S) which designates the line of stitch formation.

While the several adjustments above described are desirable, it is contemplated that the folder F, the gauge G, the guide D and the bracket 24, may be made integral.

The bracket 24 is provided with a pair of parallel flanges 24a (Fig. 4) which receive between them the lower end portion of a Vsupporting arm` 26. This arm (Fig. 6) is provided with an elongate slot 2l which receives the shank portion of a screw having a large flat head 28, the shank portion of the screw having threaded engagement with the body portion of the bracket 24. The head 28 of this screw is of sufficientdiameter to overlap the edges of the flanges 24a with which it contacts, thus together withthe flanges, forming a vertical guideway in which the part 26 is free to slide. A spring 29 arranged within the slot 21 bearswat one end against theupper end of the slot and at its other .endV against the shank of the screw, thus tending to force the bracket 24 downwardly withV reference to theY arm- 26, but permitting the folder to `riseand fallin accordance with variations in thickness of the work.

The arm 26 is preferably bent at 30 (Fig. 6) to provide an upper'portion 3l which is inclined to the vertical, such upper portion having an opening 32 for the reception of a pivot pin and having the angularly disposed end surf-aces 33 and 33a respectively.

The upper part 3I of the arm 26 is pivotally connected to the forward end 34 of a lever 35 (Fig. '7). The end 34 of said lever is provided with an opening 36 which'receives a pivot pin 31 which also passes through the opening 32 and pivotally unites the arm. 26-to the lever 35. If desired this pivot pin may comprise a projecting portion 38 (Fig. 2) shaped to form a handle for the convenient manipulation of the parts.

-A flatA spring 39 (Figs. 1 and 3) overlies the upper edge of the end portion 34 of the lever 26, being secured to the lever 35 by means of a screw 4I). The free end of this spring alternatively contacts the end surfaces 33 or 33a of the arm 26 and is adapted to hold the arm 26 in either of two selected positions of adjustment with respect to the lever 35, one of such positions being indicated in dotted lines at 4I in Fig. 1, while another of such positions is shown in full lines in Fig. 1.

The lever 35 is twisted intermediate itsends as shown at 42 so that while its end portion 43 is disposed in a vertical plane its portion 34 is inclinedA to the vertical. The part 43 of the lever 35 is pro-vided with an opening 44 for the reception of a pivot pin and theA end of the part 43 is provided with two angularly disposedv surfaces 45 and 45aL respectively.

A block 46 (Figs. 1, 2 and 3) having a vertical opening for the reception of `the presser foot bar B, is secured at the proper position upon the bar B by means of a set screw 41. To the right-hand side of this block 46 the part 43 of the lever 35 is secured by means of -a pivot pin 48 (Fig. 3). The block 46 is furnished with a stop 49 (Fig. 3)

to limit upward swinging movement of the lever 35, and a flat spring 50, secured by a screw 5I to the rear side of the block 46, has its free end designed for alternative engagement with the surfaces 45 and 45a of the lever 35, thereby to hold the lever inV either of two selected positions, one such position being shown in full lines in Fig. 1, and the other position being shown in dotted lines at 52 in the same gure.

During the operation of forming the seam I2, the attachment occupies theposition shown in full lines in Fig. 1, with the folder F, the gauge G and the guide D arranged as shown in' Fig. 10 with respect to the work. However, when the end portion of the neckband is to be stitched,

the arm 26 is swung upwardly about the pivot pin 3'! to the position indicated in dotted lines at 4IV in Fig. 1, thus raising the folding and guiding devices from the work. By reason of the angular position of the forward end 34 of the lever 35, this upward swing of the arm 26 moves the folding mechanism out of the direct line of vision of the operator so that it does not seriously interfere with the stitching of the end of the neckband, although it is not raised very far from the plane of the work and is thus in a position such that it may quickly be moved down to the operative position. Thus there is no delay in placing the folder in position in readiness to continue the formation of the seam.

However,'during the formation of the first seam 6, vwhen it is desired'to keepthe vicinity of the needle as free from obstruction as possible, the lever 35 may be swung up to the position indicated in dotted lines at 52 in Fig. l, thus carrying the folding device completely out of the field of operations. During this movement the folder moves upwardly and to the right away from its operative position, thus leaving the bed plate of the sewing machine wholly free for manipulation of the work and carrying the folder entirely out of the line of vision of the operator. Since the block 46 is fixed tothe presser-foot bar B, the lifting of the latter to permit entry of the work beneath the foot, also lifts the folder plate F and associated parts.

While one desirable embodiment of the invention has been illustrated by way of example, it `is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to this precise arrangement but is to be regarded as broadly inclusive of any and all equivalent constructions such as fall within the terms of the appended claims.

We claim:

l. A sewing machine attachment for use in back s earning a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment constituting a unit comprising supporting means secured to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine, turning means carried by said supporting means and including a plate designed to overlie the bed plate of the sewing machine in spaced relation to and in advance of the presser foot, said plate having an oblique edge operative progressively toturn in the marginal material of the rear ply and shirt body, the upper surface o'f said plate constituting a support for the margin of the front plyv of the collarband, a gauge member secured to and projecting below the lower surface of said plate and having a straight edge which denesthe line of fold in the material which is being turned, and a part projecting above said plate having a rectilinear surface constituting a guide for the edge of the front ply of the neckband.

2. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment constituting a unit comprising turning means operative progressively to fold in the `marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the work is fed toward the needle of the sewing machine, a block having provision for securing it to the presser-foot bar of the sewing machine, a lever having one endl pivotally secured to the block, a spring operative to hold said lever in either of two selected positions, an arm having one end pivotally secured to the other end of said lever, a spring operative to hold said arm in either of two angular positions relative to the lever and in each of which positions the turning means is raised from the work, and means attaching said turning means to the other end of said arm.

3. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply f its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment constituting a unit comprising turning means operative to turn in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body, a part having provision for securing it to the presser-foot bar of the sewing machine, a lever having one end pivotally secured to said part, a stop for limiting swinging movement of the lever in one direction, a spring operative to Cil hold said lever in either of two selected positions, said lever swinging in a vertical plane but being twisted so that its free end is in an inclined plane, an arm pivotally secured to the free end of said lever so as to swing in an inclined plane, a spring operative to hold said arm in either of two selected positions relative to the lever, and means attaching said turning means to the free end of said arm. A

4. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment constituting a unit comprising supporting means secured to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine and including turning means operative to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body, a bracket to which the turning means is normally fixed, said bracket having a vertical guideway, an arm having one end thereof arrangedV to slide in said vertical guideway, said arm having an elongate slot therein, a part passing through said slot and so connecting said arm to the bracket as to permit free sliding of the bracket relatively to the arm, and a spring operative at all times to urge the bracket toward the end of the arm thereby to keep the turning means in yielding contact with the work regardless of the thickness of the latter.

5. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment constituting a unit which comprises a folding plow provided with a work-engaging surface operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the work is fed toward the sewing machine needle, a block provided with means for attaching it tothe presser foot bar of the sewing machine, a lever pivotally secured at one end to said block, an arm having one end pivotally secured to the other end of said lever, and means attaching the turning plow to the free end of said arm.

6. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply ofl its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment comprising a folding plow having a substantially vertical workengaging surface which extends obliquely across the line of the proposed seam and which is operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the sewing machine needle, said plow having an under surface which rides upon the folded material, and means for securing the attachment to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine.

'7. A sewing machine attachment yfor use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment including a part having .provision for securing it to the presser foot bar .of the sewing machine, and comprising turning means operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the sewing machine needle, a guide for the edge of the front ply of the neckband, a gauge operative to determine the line of fold formed by the folded-in marginal material, and means uniting the several parts of the attachment.

8, A sewing machine attachment for use in` back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment including a part provided with means *for securing it to the presser foot bar of a sewing machine and comprising turning means operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the sewing machine needle, said turning means being constructed and arranged to constitute a rest for the front ply of the neckband, a guide for the edge of said front ply, and means adjustably connecting the turning means and guide, said connecting means being designed and arranged to permit relative movement of the edge guide and the turning means transversely of the line of the proposed seam.

9. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear .ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment comprising turning means including a substantially horizontal plate having a work-engaging edge which normally eX- tends diagonally across the line of the proposed seam and which is operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear -ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the sewing machine needle, and means operative to support said plate in operative relation to the path of movement of the work toward the sewing machine needle, said supporting means including relatively movable parts so constructed and arranged as to permit the folding plate to rise and fall freely in response to variations in thickness of the folded material.

10. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the reall ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment including a block having provision for securing it to the presser foot bar of a sewing machine and comprising turning means including a plate supported by said block and which, in use, is located above the bed plate of the sewing machine in advance of the presser foot and which rides Iupon the folded-in marginal material of said rear ply and shirt body as said folded material advances toward the needle, said plate having an oblique work-engaging edge operative by engagement with said marginal material progressively to turn the latter in and form a fold, a gauge projecting below the lower surface of said turning plate, and means operatively connecting the gauge and plate, the gauge having an elongate substantially vertical surface parallel to the line of feed and which is operative to define the line of fold.

11. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment comprising turning means including a folding plate which, when in use, is located above the bed plate of the sewing machine in advance of the presser foot and which rides upon the folded-in marginal material of said rear :ply and shirt body as said folded material approaches the needle, the upper sur-face of said folding plate sloping downwardly toward that end of the plate which is nearest to the presser foot, said upper surface constituting a support for the front ply of the neckband, the front edge of said plate extending obliquely across the line of the proposed seam and being operative progressively to fold in the marginal material,

said oblique edge being smoothly rounded at its lower corner thereby to facilitate the entry of the work beneath it, and means for securing the attachment in operative relation to the sewing machine presser foot and needle bar.

12. .A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body'by a sewed seam, said attachment including a part having provision for attaching it to the presser foot bar of a sewing machine with the attachment located in advance of and spaced from the presser foot, the attachment comprising turning means operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the needle, the supporting means including relatively movable parts operative to `per-mit free rise and fall of the turning means in accordance with varying thicknesses of the folded material, and spring means yieldingly urging the turning means downwardly toward the Work.

13. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body by a sewed seam, said attachment comprising a normally substantially horizontal folding plate arranged in advance of and spaced from the presser foot of the sewing machine, said plate having an upright work-turning edge extending obliquely across the line of the proposed seam and operative progressively to fold in the marginal material of said rear ply and the shirt body as the material is fed toward the machine needle, the under surface of said plate riding upon the folded-over marginal material, and the upper surface of the plate being arranged to support the front ply of the neckband, and connections operative to attach the folding plate to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine, said connections being so constructed and arranged as to permit the folding plate to be moved to and held in either of two inactive positions, each at a substantial distance above the bed plate of the sewing machine.

14. A sewing machine attachment for use in back seaming a collar having the rear ply of its neckband already attached to a shirt body bya sewed seam, said attachment including means for securing it to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine and comprising work-engaging means normally disposed in advance of the presser foot and needle, said work-engaging means including a folding plow operative to fold in the previously united margins of said rear ply of the neckband and the shirt body, said .plow having a substantially vertical folding surface extending obliquely across the line of the proposed seam and having a substantially flat under surface which rides upon the folded-in marginal material as the work progresses toward the presser foot, a gauge element disposed :below the plane of said flat under surface of the plow and designed to engage the edge of the formed fold, and a guide element located above the upper surface of the plow and operative to engage and guide the edge of the front ply of the neck-band, and means operatively uniting the plow, the gauge and the guide.

RICHARD J. MCFALLS. fROLLAND HE}3,R,INGTON.v 

